Monday, May 07, 2007

去年这个时候

还有3小时,本人又要再次向首都开进。

四月到现在,辞了工作,但是看起来倒是没闲着,上次旅程的游记没写完,马上又要开始新的路了。去年的今天好像也是在准备同样的事情,位置不同,地点不同,心情也大不一样,心情不一样主要是因为人不一样。去年这个时候承诺的今年再见马上就要实现了,两个人缺席,两个都是湖南人:)

我把这一路尽量想得未知,所以也没有什么实在的期盼,No!其实是试图想把尴尬轻描淡写。不管怎么样,时隔一年,故人再见面总归是件好事。各种可能和不可能,回来的时候再说吧。

Sunday, May 06, 2007

-6-梅里雪山

The second night of this road trip, we finally parked the van at Deqin. I finally got the access to Internet and Gesang bought me beer at a Tibetan bar. Tibetans are extremely friendly, we barely knew each other, and I simply couldn't resist the way he shows his hospitality. Gesang introduced me to his friend, Mr. Lu, who works with The Nature Conservancy Deqin Office, another nature conservationist. It turned out that this Lu used to be merely a costumer of Gesang! This is Gesang's, or rather, Tibetans' philosophy of friendship: Fate brought strangers together, to treasure the relationship, nonetheless, is nothing to do with fate any longer, but with personality. Gesang told me about his job, his affair with a Canton woman, his 5-year-old daughter, his wife and the life in Shangri-La.

The boss of the hotel said we would see the snowy mountain top of Meili if the weather were to be fine. Without any luck, it rained the next day, anyway, I comforted myself with the concept that the raindrop was from the very mountain top.

The road taking us to Shangri-La, the Yunnan-Tibet Road, is as hazardous as the road we took to Deqin. Along the road we had to drive over Baima Xueshan, the highest altitude we passed is 4,292 meters, at which we stopped, taking a leak, and it was freezing to take advantage of the elevation.

Two interesting things we came across on the road: Yaks and the governor of Yunnan. We were only forced to stop the van at the encounters of these two.

Wednesday, May 02, 2007

-5- 一路向北

猴子之后的第二站是澜沧江美景,请的司机格桑次里是个藏族兄弟,我们三人一致认为此人长得极像 Sean Pan. 他的工作是把我们沿着澜沧江北上送到德钦,再翻过白马雪山绕回香格里拉,最后再继续沿金沙江把我们送到丽江拉市海。

从塔城到维西,澜沧江正式进入视线。这次拍摄的主题是 Soul of a River, 这里的river of Mekong, 指的就是澜沧江。他们从泰国一路上来,穿过中南半岛,现在到了这条河的上游。本来7个小时的车程,由于Joe说了十几个amazing,于是一路停下,在河谷,溜索,大桥,悬崖,险滩,白塔,处处留下三脚架的脚印。7个小时的车程变成了两天。到得最险处,竟连格桑都不敢停车,一股脑把左边的万丈深渊和右边的绝壁飞石统统甩在身后。

-4- 下山

在雪山上睡了几天帐篷,为了找猴子,每天在山里来来回回。拍摄算是顺利,只是山上的坡度实在锻炼,每一步都要靠前肢帮忙。我自己心想,如果我们这一行人在山上继续住上些年月,进化的结果肯定前肢会变发达。但是在进化完成之前,失足的现象也是常有的事。山坡的高度加上冰雹的湿度,以及工作的负责任态度,成就了我在下山泥泞路上的一交狗吃屎。

所幸得是,除了摔得难看以外,基本没受太大的伤。擦伤的血肉里夹着分层次的黄土,照常理,我觉得应该至少清洗一下,于是下山后找到了塔城镇的医务室。医生看了后说,你们城里人就是娇气,泥土其实才是最好的止血剂。我顿时不知道怎么说话。医生看出我的窘迫,勉强用洗衣粉水给我洗过伤口,再上双氧水,最后是酒精。看着自己的肉被人腌制,看着从白到红气泡颜色的过渡,以及其中伴随的疼痛,或多或少还是会对救了自己的医生怀恨在心。

-3- "Butt...No mon'keys"!

Professor Long said this to me, "you are very lucky this time, because you'll be privileged to see Yunnan Golden Monkeys."

I did see them and learned something interesting about this unique creature. You can never judge a person by his name, neither a monkey! For Christ's sake, these golden monkeys are not golden at all. Baby monkeys are white, and adults, black and white. Yunnan golden monkeys is one of the two species in primates with red lips, the other is human. This is my favorite part about the animal, and I learned this from Professor Long, we called him monkey king, and Deano loves mimicking his four-toned accent.

-2- Ate snow, not too cold

April 17th, early in the morning, after a cup of butter tea, we started today by driving half an hour to Shangcun, the starting point of a 5-hour hike up a fairly steep mountain trail.

Five hours later, when we hit a not-so-good camp spot, before unloading our gear from horses, suddenly found out there was no such thing depicted by Long as stream water, and we were told this little slope under two big trees, would be, quirkily, our camp site. Being extremely thirsty, starving, and angry, Joe and Dean nearly lost their temper, which left me in a very awkward position—I should stand by J&D, because they pay me, meantime, I am Chinese after all, if I assisted too much in J&D's seemingly unreasonable necessities, like a cup of coffee, or electricity generator, I would be so despised by my own nation. In fact I was quite despised by my fellow countrymen when I managed to require fresh water supply the next day as a tradeoff for poor Joe who could not get his cup of coffee to cease his addict. The result, we ate snow, and we cooked rice with snow, and we slept after a snowy meal.